Modeling lesson: dresses for different body types. Modeling of a dress Pattern of a dress with a fitted silhouette, widened towards the bottom

Greetings to all ladies who love beautiful, elegant clothes and are ready to create their own wardrobe! The dress is gaining another round of popularity, despite the dominance of trousers, in this regard, the most universal model, which will suit almost everyone.

A straight dress with three-quarter sleeves in style is very versatile and will be useful for the most different situations. Its simplicity is its advantage. It is laconic and elegant. Pockets in the side seams make it more convenient and interesting. The two-seam sleeve creates a good and comfortable fit on the arm.

For this model you can choose different materials. It all depends on what result you want to get. Made from dense materials such as cotton or jacquard, the dress will look more statuesque and hold its shape well. Made from soft fabrics such as silk or wool, it will not look so strict.

BASIC DIMENSIONS FOR PATTERNS

Chest circumference – 96 cm

Waist circumference – 78 cm

Hip circumference – 102 cm

MATERIALS FOR WORK

Fabric 150 cm wide and 160 cm long

Nonwoven

Concealed zipper 22 cm long

PATTERN DETAILS

1 – Shelf (one piece with a fold)

2 – Back (two parts)

3 – Front part of the sleeve (two parts)

5 – Pocket burlap (four parts)

The pattern is given without seam allowances. It is necessary to add 1.5 cm along all sections, 3 cm at the bottom of the sleeves, and 4 cm at the bottom of the dress.

DESCRIPTION OF WORK

1. Sew the center seam along the back. Process the cuts and iron them.

2. Sew in a hidden zipper. See.

3. Stitch shoulder seams. Process them and iron them onto the shelf.

4. Cut out the facing on the base of the top of the shelf as a separate part and duplicate it with non-woven fabric.

5. Finish the neckline with a facing as shown in.

6. Sew chest darts on the front and iron them down.

7. Sew the side seams, leaving free space for entering the pockets.

8. Make pockets in the side seams. To help .

9. Finish the seam allowance along the bottom of the dress and iron it to wrong side. .

10. Sew elbow and front seams on sleeves. Process and iron.

11. Finish the bottom edges of the sleeves and iron the allowances to the wrong side. Hem by hand with a blind stitch.

12. Sew sleeves into armholes. Process the allowance.

The dress is ready!

The pattern of this model is quite simple and on its basis you can sew a lot of interesting products, even by combining several different materials.

Women's straight silhouette dress with three-quarter sleeves is suitable for ladies of the most of different ages. For young girls, you can make it from bright fabrics with beautiful decorations. For older ladies, these can be calmer, more discreet options that will look very stylish.

Fashionable women's dresses are varied, but there are basic models that have become classics and remain relevant forever. This dress is just one of them. It will be a great addition to any wardrobe. By the way, if you make it short, it can very well play the role of a tunic.

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Fashion designer

Hello, dear readers!

The purpose of our lesson is to learn how to model dresses based on basic pattern. The kind that even beginners can handle. In addition, we will look at simple dress styles, suitable for type your figure, using the example of which you can, if you want, create more complex models, enriching them with details and using a combination of fabric textures and colors.

Sometimes they write to us: “It’s very difficult for me to buy ready-made clothes, my figure is an inverted triangle, and besides, I have a very decent bust and a wide chest, that is, my chest volume is 102 cm - this is a very big disappointment for me. I don’t I have the opportunity to purchase nothing for myself, because the rest of the figure parameters go to size 44-46... What style can I choose?”

Of course, having parameters that do not fit into the standards, it is difficult to find something to your liking in the store, and sometimes going for a new thing results in frustration. Well, there’s no need to be sad, especially for a person who has at least a little experience in tailoring. And we will try to help with simple patterns, ones that even a novice tailor can create. It's no secret that everyone in the world makes dresses using one universal pattern, modifying and modeling it. Having such an invaluable tool in your arsenal, the creation of which on our website will not take much time, you will be able to dress according to your taste and the image invented by you.

First, what is a basic pattern? This is a pattern without model features; roughly speaking, it is a human figure made in a two-dimensional plane. The pattern has a different degree of fit, depending on what type of clothing will be designed in the future - outerwear (coat, jacket) or light (dress, blouse, corset, etc.), and differs in the size of the freedom increases. Therefore, on our website you will find both, and also, they will differ in increases, which is very important. By the way, on our website, along with the ability to create a basic pattern according to individual sizes, there is a whole range of dress models that are absolutely different in cut and suitable for women of different body types. You can also use them, especially since each size is available in three heights, and this is very important for a good fit of the finished product.

So, having the base pattern in hand, you and I can proceed directly to modeling. First, let's choose a dress model. You need to take this point very responsibly, objectively assessing your appearance, figure, image as a whole. After all, it’s no secret that we are all different people, each of us has our own individual figure, which sometimes does not fit into the so-called “framework of the ideal,” especially since this very ideal is different in each time period, it changes according to fashion trends. Let's not conform ourselves to standards and love our individuality. All female figures are conventionally divided into several body types, and each of us belongs to one type or another to a greater or lesser extent.

Illustration from the site https://high-fashion21.ru

Modeling a dress for a Triangle (pear) body type

The pear-type figure is very feminine, but sometimes brings the owner some difficulties when choosing ready-made dress due to the difference in the circumference of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neck, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and tights that match your shoes will make you look slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hip area, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

For a modeling example, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on. The style is interesting because the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate female figure just the lower type. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, widening silhouette will bring a slimmer silhouette to the fore. But here you can’t go overboard with excessively narrowing the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.

Modeling. On the back and front pattern pieces, draw model relief lines running from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts; on the back, transfer part of the solution to the midline of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Bust dart open in the armhole, read more about transferring darts here. All that remains is to mark the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip circumferences is large and the openings of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart needs to be divided into two, otherwise finished product Unsightly creases will appear in the waist area.

In the second modeling option, we suggest widening the skirt towards the bottom, making it a so-called A-line silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the "Inverted Triangle" body type

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. All the decor, bright prints are down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, raglan sleeves will help us here, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a one-shoulder halter dress, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear full, wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous or wide, with vertical seams or trim.

As an example, let's look at pattern modeling simple dress suitable for this type of figure. The style features a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut along the waistline, there are two opposing folds on the front panel of the skirt, and a slit on the back panel of the skirt.

Let's start modeling by applying the back and shelf to the parts. raised lines (if you want a tighter fit or the fabric chosen is knitted, you can use the base pattern of a close-fitting silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downwards, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom we will keep the volume of the skirt in its original form.

Modeling a dress for an hourglass figure type

Body type" hourglass" - the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered a role model and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothing. Lucky are women who have this type of physique. Top tip- focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Neckline, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look.

Let's model such a simple dress in two versions.

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very impressive.For modeling we need And . The dress is cut at the waist, the skirt is widened towards the bottom. The darts to fit the chest are transferred to the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neckline are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. Step 1 - on the back detail, the dart for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because The neckline of the back is quite deep and wide, but the amount of opening must be removed from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For ease of modeling, we will transfer the dart on the shelf into an armhole. We cut the skirt pattern pieces lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of modeling. Let's outline a new neck line according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, and we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. Read more about transferring darts. When designing a cut-off adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf part should be lowered at the waist by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from being pulled up in the finished form. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the skirt parts, so that the darts open towards the bottom. Let's adjust the side cuts and bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. The pattern for the base of the sleeve can be found on ours. First, shorten the length to the required length. Using vertical cuts running from the hem to the bottom of the part, and subsequent sliding apart of the pattern parts, design a counter fold.

More detailed modeling of sleeves can be found in this

In the second version of the dress, the darts on the front are translated into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below.

Modeling a dress for the Oval (apple) body type

Oval (apple) figure. In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". Strategy in making the right choice clothing will emphasize and accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that is slightly wider towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts, making the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be expanded somewhat, for example, use a V-shaped neckline, collars. Sheath dresses, wrap dresses, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.

As an example, let's look at this dress. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, it greatly elongates the silhouette and makes you slimmer. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly widens towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the desired look and collect the figure as a whole. To simulate this model we will use , for a better fit.

Modeling. We straighten the side cuts of the parts, because The dress has a straight, loose silhouette. Transfer the dart on the bulge of the chest to the side seam and mark the relief line. We will shorten the sleeve detail pattern just above the elbow.

In the received details we will outline the front yoke and cut it off.

Modeling a dress for a Rectangle body type

Female figure of the rectangle type. For modern models it is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! This is where our modeling tips and patterns can come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Marilyn Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we strive for.

We chose just the right dress for the modeling lesson. We will need a pattern this time. The dress is sleeveless, loose-fitting with a counter pleat running from the neckline downwards, secured at the bottom to give the product an oval silhouette. Pockets can be made in the side seams.

If you sew often, you know that any product can be modeled using a base pattern. It is the accuracy of the design of the base, be it a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, that is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. An accurate base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, and get real pleasure from the work and the result. All that remains is to learn and build such a structure yourself - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Dress silhouettes are divided into several types: very close-fitting, close-fitting, semi-fitting, straight. In order for your dress to “fit” perfectly, you should correctly allow for loose fit when building the base. We will tell you how to make them correctly and how to create the exact pattern for the base of the dress in this article.

1. Dress length 100 cm
2. Back length to waist 43 cm
3. Front length to waist 47 cm
4. Shoulder length 12 cm
5. Half neck circumference 19 cm
6. Half circumference above the chest 44 cm
7. Half chest 48 cm
8. Half waist 38 cm
9. Half hip circumference 51 cm
10. Hip height 20 cm
11. The distance between the high points of the chest is 20 cm

IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (BC) of more than 80 cm.

Drawing a dress pattern

The construction of a dress pattern begins with drawing a rectangle ABCD.

Dress width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement plus the increase in freedom of fit from: AB = DC = 48 cm + increase in freedom of fit.

IMPORTANT! When constructing a pattern for the base of a dress, it is necessary to take into account the increases given in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions how to use them.

Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress as measured).

Pattern-basis of the dress: 1st stage of design

Armhole depth. From point A downwards, the Armhole Depth is laid down with an increase and point D is placed (GPr = 1/10 of the Chest Circumference + 10.5 cm = 9.6 + 10.5 = 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC, and the intersection point is designated G1.

Dress waist line. From point A, lay down 43 cm (back length to waist according to measurement) and place point T. From point T, draw a line to the right until it intersects with line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter T1.

Dress hip line. From point T, set aside 20 cm (hip height according to measurement) and place point L, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter L1.

Dress back width (ShS). From point G to the right, the width of the back is set aside and point G2 is placed (ШС = (1/8 Chest Circumference +5.5 cm) for all sizes plus the increase in freedom of fit from Table 1).

Note. For a very fitted silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width can be omitted, but the fabric should be chosen with elastic fibers.

From point G2, draw a line upward until it intersects with line AB and the intersection point is designated by the letter P.

Armhole width of the dress (ShPr). From point G2 to the right, the armhole width G2G3 is set aside (G2G3 = (1/8 of the Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus the increase in freedom of fit from Table 1.

Raising the front of the dress. From point T1, 47 cm is set aside upward and point W is placed (Length of front to waist according to measurement).
From point Ш, draw a horizontal line to the left. From point G3, raise the perpendicular upward. At the intersection of the lines, point P1 is obtained, and the point of intersection with line AB is designated by the letter P2.

Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From point G4, lower the line down until it intersects with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is designated by the letter T2, and its intersection with the LL1 line by the letter L2.

Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armhole. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.

Calculation of tackle darts. Excess fabric for waist darts is calculated using the formula: Half bust minus half waist = 48-38 = 10 cm.

Of these, 1/3 is removed into the side darts - 1.5 cm in the back and front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm is distributed in the back and front - 4 cm is removed in the dart along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in the front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), make a second dart along the front and another along the central seam of the back.

Pattern-basis of the dress: 2nd stage of design

Building the back

Dress neckline. From point A, add 6.5 centimeters to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From point 6.8 upwards, 2 centimeters are laid. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.

The slope of the shoulder of the dress. 1.5 centimeters are laid down from point P.

Shoulder line. From point 2 (neck) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length as measured plus 0-1 centimeter for fit for all sizes).

Even more creative ideas and patterns you will find on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to our free lessons newsletter!

Simple in cut, but very comfortable dress a loose cut is guaranteed to lift the mood of its owner. And this is not only thanks to the silhouette, wide sleeves and collar, but also to the dazzling white color of the fabric from which it is made. Be sure to sew yourself such a dress, and you will always have something to wear!

Loose fit dress pattern

Rice. 1. Loose fit dress - front

Rice. 2. Loose fit dress - back

The dress pattern is modeled after. The silhouette of the dress is loose, so when creating the basic dress pattern, the increase in fit is 3 cm.

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Dress pattern modeling

Dress front modeling

Rice. 3. Modeling the front of a loose-fitting dress

Move the chest dart on the front half of the dress to the armhole. Tail dart remove it.

Rice. 4. Modeling sleeves, yoke and collar

Deepen the neckline by 1 cm, set aside 2 cm along the shoulder line, draw a new line for the front neckline.

Raise the shoulder line by 2 cm and lengthen the shoulder to 20 cm. Extend the shoulder line and set aside the sleeve length to about 35-40 cm. Draw the sleeve stitching line and the sleeve bottom line at a right angle. The width of the half sleeve at the bottom is 15 cm.

Build a front yoke 4 cm wide. Cut the yoke and cut it out separately. Draw a side line as shown in Fig. 4, narrowing the dress to the bottom by 2 cm. The length of the dress from the waist is about 55 cm.

Modeling the dress back pattern

Rice. 5. Loose fit dress - back modeling

The back pattern is modeled on the basis of the front pattern. Remove the tackle dart. Deepen the back neckline by 1 cm. Set aside 2 cm along the shoulder. Draw a new line for the back neckline.

Place the front pattern on the back pattern, re-draw the sleeve and the back side line as shown in Fig. 5.

Collar pattern

Measure the length of the front and back neckline according to the pattern. Draw a rectangle with a length equal to ½ of the neck of the dress and a width of 9 cm (see Fig. 4). Set aside 2 cm from the left corner of the rectangle to the right, from the bottom left corner up and from the top right corner down.

Connect the resulting points by slightly rounding the top and bottom lines of the collar. Cut out the collar with a fold (2 parts).

Advice! The collar can also be cut into a rectangle with a fold along the top edge. In this case, the width of the part will be 14 cm (7 cm in finished form), the length is equal to the length of the neck of the dress according to the pattern. In this case, the collar is cut using an oblique thread.

Dress cut details

The cut details of the dress are shown in Fig. 6.

For the dress you will need: 1.5 m of white jersey, 145 cm wide, thin thermal fabric for knitwear, threads.

From the main fabric, cut out:

11. Back – 1 piece with fold

12. Front – 1 piece with a fold

13. Front yoke – 2 parts

14. Sleeve – 2 folded parts

15. Collar – 2 folded parts.

Cut out all the details with seam and hem allowances of 1.5 cm, allowances for the bottom of the dress and sleeves - 4 cm.

How to sew a dress

Sew the yoke parts to the front details, and adjust the seam allowances. Sew the yokes from the front side at a distance of 0.7 cm from the seam.

Sew shoulder seams, stitch sleeves, trim allowances. Sew the side seams, fold the seam allowance along the bottom of the dress and machine-stitch it with a blind stitch.

Fold the allowances at the bottom of the sleeves and sew them with a machine blind stitch.

Duplicate the outer collar with a thin thermal fabric for knitwear, stitch along the short side, iron the allowances. Sew the second part of the collar (inner) along the short side, iron the allowances.

Fold both collars right sides, stitch along the top edge, turn it inside out, sweep the top edge. Place the collar into the neckline and sew with an elastic overlock stitch.

Your loose fit dress is ready! Wear it with pleasure and be happy!

A sheath dress can fit the figure of its owner to varying degrees. We offer a pattern for one of the looser dress options. A slightly fitted dress looks great on both slender and curvier girls.

Round shallow neckline, asymmetrical relief on the front of the dress, three-quarter sleeves, zipper located in the middle back seam. A bow made of the same fabric can serve as decoration, as well as simple easy a scarf, brooch, several strings of pearls or other accessory - the main thing is that it is appropriate and at the right time. I think that a woman’s instinct will not let you down here.

Depending on the purpose of this dress, a wide variety of fabrics can be used. Fabric consumption for a width of 1.4-1.5 m is approximately 1.6-2 m.

The style is easy to sew. Perfectly suitable for sewing beginners. You can do it!

The pattern is given in four sizes in life size no seam allowances.

The pattern is sent instantly by email.

Click the button GET THE PATTERN– a few simple manipulations and the pattern appears in your email inbox. This particular method of obtaining a pattern is the most optimal today - quickly, inexpensively, without advertising and without problems. When checking your email, make sure you are at the address you provided on the website. You open the letter with the pattern, print it out on a regular printer, glue it together, cut it out to the desired size and the patterns are ready for cutting.

Even in exceptional cases, if any questions arise when receiving a pattern, we will not leave you and will bring the matter to its logical conclusion.

Note: First, print one sheet with a reference square of 10x10 cm. Check that its sides correspond exactly to 10 cm. Achieve this using your printer settings. Now you can print out all the pattern sheets and assemble them into one puzzle, according to the pattern, using narrow tape or an adhesive stick.

Before cutting out your pattern pieces, take a tape measure and compare your measurements to the pattern's measurements. Check all girths and length of the product. Determine the optimal size for yourself and cut out the pattern pieces.

ATTENTION! The pattern is given NO seam allowances! (When cutting, you must add them).

CUT DETAILS

NOTE: The details of the front of the dress are cut on the fabric in one layer.

• Upper front part – 1 piece
• Lower part of the front – 1 piece
• Back – 2 parts
• Sleeve – 2 parts
• Front neck facing - 1 piece with fold (copy from the main piece)
• Back neck facing – 2 parts (copy from the main part)
• Bow - cut 1 piece yourself, 30cm long and 18cm wide (finished 9cm) plus seam allowance
• Cut the middle part of the bow 1 piece yourself 12x12cm (finished 12x6cm) plus seam allowance

TAILORING A DRESS

Reinforce the facing parts with an adhesive pad. All open edges during the sewing process should be overcast. After the sewing operation, each knot should be ironed (ironed, pressed, etc.) - all together this is called: subjected to wet heat treatment (WHT).