Simple construction of the basis of women's trousers. Basic trouser pattern for download


The basic trouser pattern is the basis for any style, and this is the pattern you will need to model the model you like. To create such a pattern yourself, you need to take measurements, perform the necessary calculations and directly construct the drawing. The process is not complicated, but it requires certain knowledge and time. However, there is an easier option - download the finished pattern in full size.
Previously, we published skirt and dress patterns, and today we offer you to download a ready-made trouser pattern for 5 sizes - from 42 to 50! All that remains for you is to print out the pattern, choose your size (or close to it), copy the pattern onto tracing paper and you can immediately proceed to modeling the style or sewing trousers according to the basic pattern - as you like.

How to determine your size

Take measurements from your figure and compare them with the measurements from Table 1. The main measurement for waist products is the hip circumference. When choosing the size of a trouser pattern, it is also important to take into account the Seat Height measurement. It is the seat height that determines the level of location (depth) of the middle seam. And if the seam depth is insufficient, the trousers will be “shallow” and vice versa.
The length of the trousers according to the pattern is about 104 cm. When modeling the style, the length should be reduced or increased.

Compare your measurements with the table and determine your trouser size. Then check the selected size as shown in fig. 2.

Rice. 1. Table of women's measurements

How to check a pattern

Sometimes when printing, due to printer settings, the pattern may be forcibly compressed. It is for this purpose that a “test square” with sides of 100 x 100 mm is applied to the pattern pieces. After printing the pattern, first measure the sides of the square and make sure that the pattern is printed correctly.

Rice. 2. Checking the downloaded pattern

To check the suitability of the size you have chosen (in Fig. 2, size 50), measure according to the pattern:

Waist: X=2(X1+X2+X3+X4),

Hip girth: Y=2(Y1+Y2),

Middle seam length: the distance between points A and B along the middle seam line.

Monitoring measured values

Compare the resulting X and Y values ​​with your Waist and Hip measurements. The X and Y values ​​should be 1-2 cm larger than the corresponding measurement.
Checking the length of the middle seam. Set aside the distance AB on a flexible measuring tape and pass a centimeter between your legs from the front waistline to the back waistline. Assess the level of tension of the measuring tape - it should not cut into the body, but fit loosely, giving freedom of movement.

Adjustment of waist and hip circumferences

What should you do if, when choosing a pattern, your size according to the hip circumference does not correspond to the waist circumference?
In this case, you need to adjust the waist circumference when drawing the pattern. This is very easy to do, based on the contour lines of the pattern. For example, if, according to your measurements, the hip circumference corresponds to size 46, and the waist circumference corresponds to size 44, when outlining the waist line, go to the contour line of the previous size 44 (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Outlining the pattern

How to download and print the pattern

The pattern comes in 5 full-size sizes. To download the pattern, simply click on the button below. Print the pattern on a printer in full size (730*1000 mm) - it is better to do this at a copy center.

The pattern can be downloaded in A4 format divided into sheets (do not adjust when printing and print as is). Please note that this type of printing and gluing may result in distortion of the pattern dimensions, be sure to check the key measurements as described above.

We wish you admiring glances and new creative ideas!

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The basic pattern of straight trousers is both a ready-made pattern for cutting and sewing straight trousers, and the basis for constructing patterns for many other types of trousers, trousers, panties, and shorts.

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So, let's move on to constructing the main pattern of straight trousers.

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Taking measurements

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To create a trouser pattern, you will need to take the following measurements:
- Half waist circumference (W);
- Half hip circumference (HH);
- Thigh circumference (HC);
- Pants length (Dbr);
- Pants length to the knee (Dbrk);
- Seat height (Vs);
- Bottom width - selected depending on the style.

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And allowances for loose fitting:
Fri (waist increase): 1 cm;
PB (hip increase) 1 cm (0 cm - tight fit, 2 cm - loose).

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Constructing a pattern for the front half of the trousers.

To begin with, let's construct a right angle with vertex A, one side of which is directed horizontally to the right, the other vertically down.

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The waist line is the horizontal side of the corner.

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Pants pattern. Bottom line

On the vertical side of the angle, from point A, put down a segment equal to the measure Dbr + 1 cm, put point H:
AN = Dbr - 1 = ... see.
Let's draw a horizontal line from point H to the right.

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Pants pattern. Step line

On the vertical side of the angle, from point A, we put down a segment equal to the measure Bc - 1 cm, or 1/2 the measure POb, and put point Z:
AY = Sun - 1 = ... cm or AY = 1/2 * POb = ... cm.
Let's draw a horizontal line from point I to the right.

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Pants pattern. Hip line

Let us divide the segment AY into three parts, denoting the lower point of division with the letter B:
JB = AYA / 3 = ... see.
Let's draw a horizontal line from point B to the right.

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Pants pattern. Knee line

On the vertical side of the angle, from the middle of the segment BN, we will put 4-5 cm up. Or we will put DBRK down from point A. Let's put point K:
AK = Dbrk = ... see.
Let's draw a horizontal line from point K to the right.

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Pants pattern. Bow line

Along the step line, from point I, we will set aside a segment equal to 1/2 the measure of POb plus the increase of Pb, and place point I1:
YaYa1 = (Pob + Pb) / 2 = ... see.

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From point Y1 to the right along the step line, let’s plot a segment equal to 1/10 of the POb measurement plus the increase in PB, and put point Y2:
I1Y2 = (Pob + Pb) / 10 = ... see.
Let's draw a vertical line from point H1 upward. Let us denote the intersection of this line with the waist line as T, and with the hip line as B1.

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Then we draw the bisector of the angle B1R1R2, on which we plot a segment equal to 1/2 * R1R2 = ... cm.
From point T to the left along the waist line, set aside 0-2 cm (depending on the degree of convexity of the abdomen) and place point T:
Тт = 0-2 cm.
Let's connect points m, B1, 1/2 R1R2 and R2 with a smooth curve.

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Pants pattern. Ironing line

Let's divide the segment R2 in half and put point R3. Let's draw a vertical line through it. The intersection of this line with the waist line will be designated T1, with the hip line - B2, with the knee line K1, and with the bottom line H1.

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Pants pattern. Bottom cut

The width of the lower part of the front half is 2 cm less than the width of the finished trousers.
From point H1, along the bottom line, to the right and left, we will set aside segments equal to 1/2 the width of the front half of the trouser pattern, and place points H2 and H3:
H1H2 = H1H3 = (W - 2 cm) / 2 = ... cm.

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From point H1 along the ironing line up, set aside 0.5 cm. Connect the resulting point with H2 and H3 using a ruler

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Pants pattern. Top cut

From point T, along the waist line, to the left we will set aside a segment equal to 1/2 the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist, 3-5 cm (depending on the size of the darts) and place point T2:
tT2 = PO / 2 + (3-5 cm) = ... cm.
From point T2 vertically set aside 1.5-2 cm and place point T1.
Connect points t and t1 using a ruler.

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There can be two darts on the waist line - one along the cinching line, the second - in the middle of the segment between point T1 and the cinching line.
If there is only one dart, then it is made 3 cm in size - 1.5 cm to the sides from T1. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. The sides of the dart adjust the line of the upper cut.

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The width of the trousers along the knee line is equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line or 2-4 cm less (depending on the style).
Let's set aside segments from point K1 to the sides equal to half the width of the trousers at knee level minus 2-4 cm, and put points K2 and K3:
K1K2 = K1K3 = H1H2 - (1-2 cm) = ... cm.
Let’s connect point K2 along a ruler to point I, and point K3 to point J2. We divide the segment K2Y into three parts.
From the upper and lower division points we will restore perpendiculars to the right, on which we will set aside 0.6 cm and 1 cm, respectively.
From the middle of the segment K3R2 we will restore a perpendicular to the left, on which we will set aside 0.8 cm.
We will draw the side and step cuts from the knee line to the bottom line using a ruler.
Above the knee line, we will form a side cut, connecting points T2, B, Z, 0.6 cm, 1 cm, K2 with a smooth line. Also, using a smooth line through points J2, 0.8 cm, K3, we will form a step cut.

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Let's breathe a sigh of relief - half the work is behind us!
We rested a little, and forward to building the back half of the trousers

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Basic pattern for straight trousers. On the left is the pattern for the front half of the trousers, on the right is the back half.

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Constructing a pattern for the back half of the trousers

Let's copy the constructed pattern of the front half of the trousers. Let's mark on the copy the ironing lines (putting point T1), waist (putting point T), hips (point B), step (points Z, Z1, Z2), knee (K3). Also, on the line of the upper cut we will place point t1.

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Pants pattern. Seat line

Along the step line, from point P1, move 1 cm to the left and place point P4.
Let's denote the middle of the segment TT1 with the letter t2, which we connect using a ruler to point H4, extending the line upward to a segment equal to 1/10 POb minus 1-1.5 cm, and put point T3:
t2T3 = POb / 10 - (1-1.5 cm) = ... cm.

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Let's designate the point of intersection of T3Y4 with the line of the hips with the letter b, from which we will put upward along the line T3Y4 a segment equal to the segment T2T3, and put point B3:
bB3 = t2T3 = ... see.

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Along the step line, to the right of point P4, we will set aside a segment equal to 0.2 * (Pob + Pb) and place point P5.
R4R5 = 0.2 * (Pob + Pb) = ... see.

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Let's draw a bisector of angle B3Y4Y5 and put a segment on it equal to the segment on the bisector of angle B1Y1Y2 (the front part of the trouser pattern).

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We will continue the knee line to the right and left by 2-2.5 cm, placing points K4 and K5, respectively.
Let's connect K5 to Y5. Let's measure the step cut of the pattern of the front half of the trousers on the segment K3YA2 and set it aside from point K5 (along the line K5YA5), reducing it by 0.5-0.8 cm, placing point Y6:
K5Y6 = K3Y2 - (0.5-0.8 cm).

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The seat line in section T3b smoothly transitions from a straight line into a curve that smoothly connects points b, 2.6 cm, R6.

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Pants pattern. Top cut

From point B3, to the hip line extended to the left, draw a segment equal to POb + Pb - the width of the front half along the step line (Ya1), and place point B4:
B3B4 = (Pob + Pb) - YaYa1 = ... see.

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From point T3 we draw an arc cut to the left with a radius equal to 1/2 PT + PT + 3 cm (dart opening). Also, from point B4 we draw upward with radius Bt1. Let us denote the intersection point of these arcs as T4:
T3T4 = (POt + Pt) / 2 + 3 cm = ... cm.
B4T4 = Bt1.
Let's connect points T4 and T3 with an auxiliary straight line.

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There may be one or two darts on the back half of the trouser pattern.
If there is only one dart, it is located in the middle of the segment T3T4, its opening is 3 cm, and its length is 9-10 cm.
From the middle of the segment T3T4, a perpendicular 9-10 cm long is laid, the end point of which is connected to the extreme points of the dart, the connection lines are extended beyond the segment T3T4 by 0.5 cm. The resulting 0.5 cm points are connected along a ruler to T4 and T3.

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Two darts on the back half are used when the difference between POb and POt is large. In this case, the first dart is located at a distance of 8-9 cm from the seat line, the second - at a distance of 6-7 cm from the first towards the side. The solution of the second tuck is 1.5-2 cm.

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Pants pattern. Bottom cut

Along the bottom line, from point H2 to the left, and from point H3 to the right, set aside 2 cm. Extend the ironing line by 0.5 cm. Connect the 0.5 cm point with a ruler to points H4 and H5.

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Pants pattern. Side and step cuts

From the middle of the auxiliary segment K5Y5 we will restore a perpendicular to the left, on which we will set aside 1-1.5 cm.
The side and step cuts are formed from the knee line to the bottom line along the ruler; above the knee line, the side cut is a smooth curve parallel to the side cut of the front half. A step cut is a smooth concave curve connecting points R6, 1-1.5 cm and K5.
On both patterns, we will put control points at the cuts on the knee line and at the side cut on the step line.

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That's it, the main straight trouser pattern is complete! What great fellows we are!

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Cutting and sewing straight women's trousers according to the main pattern

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When cutting, it is necessary to monitor the direction of the grain thread: The ironing line of the front and back halves should run along the grain thread.

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The front half is cut out entirely with a codpiece (the part that hides the zipper). Don't forget about allowances for seams and hem finishing.

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Also, along the grain thread, we cut out the belt, length equal to PO + 10 cm, width when cutting 7-8 cm.

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We will also prepare for the unexpected and cut out wedges and belt loops- they can be used to extend the sections of the back half if mistakes were made when constructing the pattern.

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Laying out patterns on fabric and cutting straight trousers.

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Sewing straight women's trousers

First, we’ll lay a snare along the contours of the pattern(copy seam), mark the ironing line with spacer stitches.

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Then we sew the darts and folds of the upper section of the front half of the trousers. At the same time, we sew the folds 4-6 cm from the top, and finish the seam with a double stitch at an angle to the fold.

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Now we sweep and sew the darts of the upper cut of the back halves of the trousers.

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Lightly moisten the folds and darts, and iron them towards the middle cut or along the style.

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Now it's time to process the pockets(if the selected trouser model has them).

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After that, we will treat our trousers with steam, heat and such and such a word :)

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Scheme for ironing trousers.

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Fold the front halves right sides up and iron along the ironing lines on both sides.

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On the contrary, we fold the back halves with the right sides facing inward. On the ironing board, place the folded back halves with step-by-step cuts towards you in an oblique direction to the left. We moisten and move the iron from the knee towards the seat to pull out the step sections. At the same time, the left hand pulls back the upper part of the step cuts, placing them in a straight line.

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The sections of the seat, with the halves of the trousers in the same position, are slightly pulled back with an iron in the area of ​​the largest recess.

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Then, using an arcing motion of the iron towards the fold of the part, we iron out all the slack in the fabric that has formed above the buttocks between the upper part of the step cut and the seat cut.

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We repeat the described processing in the same order for another part., with the difference that the step cuts will now be located away from us.

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Let's separate the rear halves, and, each separately, fold along the ironing line with the front side inward, aligning the side and step cuts.

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Now let's give the rear halves their final shape, Having pressed the fold of the parts opposite the upper sections of the step sections (under the buttocks), after which it is necessary to allow the parts of the trousers to dry.

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If the fabric you choose contains a large percentage of synthetics, you won’t need to pull or iron it.

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Let's get back to sewing.

We sweep and stitch the side sections. If you decide to make a fastener on the side (like on a skirt), then we do not sweep the left side sections 16-20 cm from the top. Press the seams.

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We sweep and stitch the step cuts, and press the seams.

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Sweep and stitch the middle sections. At the same time, if you plan to place the fastener in the front, leave the cuts of the front halves from top to the hip line unswept.

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Then processes the fastener in the middle or side seam.

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We baste and sew the belt to the upper cut.

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Let's hem the bottom. At the end of the belt, from the side of the front half, we sew a loop, and at the end of the belt, from the side of the back half, we sew a button.

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Ironing our completely finished trousers! Congratulations on your successful sewing!

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Don’t rush to leave the page thinking that you already know how to make a trouser pattern! Why? I'll explain now…
How many steps do you need to take to get a pattern, right?
That is why I went searching on the Internet and came across a surprisingly simple, but at the same time accurate Italian method.

Construction of the trouser base pattern (description)

In this article we will look at constructing a basic pattern for straight women's trousers using the Italian method. Its main difference from other methods is that the side seam of the product is shifted to the center of the back panel by 1 cm.
The main advantage of basic patterns, as a rule, is the ability to use them as a basis for modeling trousers, shorts, breeches, etc. The advantages of the Italian cut are obvious for women with a large back curve. Due to their design, the trousers have an ideal fit in the waist and hip area.

Initial data
So, to create a pattern, we need initial data - measurements. It is advisable to have someone help you measure them. Please note that all measurements are taken in underwear and recorded in the table.

Important: the initial data was taken as measurements of size 50 for women according to the Italian cutting system.
For other sizes, see Standard measurements used in the Italian cutting system

Measurement Designation Value
Waist circumference FROM 84
Hip circumference OB 110
Thigh height WB 20.5
Seat height BC 28
Knee height VK 60.5
Knee circumference OK 26
Pants length DI 106

Note: Wb is measured from the waist line to the horizontal line drawn along the most protruding points of the buttocks; Sun is measured in a sitting position - the distance from the bottom edge of the tape at the waist to the plane of the chair; In this case, VK is measured along the side from the waist to the middle of the kneecap.

When creating a basic trouser pattern, we take the necessary allowances for a loose fit:

Increase Designation Value (CM)
Increase in waist size Pr.T 1
Increase in hips Pr.B 2

When modeling, the increases can be changed within the following limits: for Pt from 0 to 1.5 cm, for Pb from 0.5 to 4 cm. The degree of fit of the product depends on the increases.

Constructing a trouser pattern

(Fig. 1) So, we recommend constructing a pattern drawing on graph paper (it is sold in rolls up to 1 m wide) or in special programs for creating patterns, such as RedCafe. (the favorite program of engineers, Autocad, is also suitable)
Let's start by building the front panel of the trousers. In the upper right corner we put point A. Next, from t.A down we put two measurements: Bb - put t.B and Vs - put t.S.

(Fig. 2) From point B to the left we lay a segment equal to ¼ (OB + Pr.b) - point B1 and to the right 0.5 cm - point B2

(Fig. 3) From t.C to the left we put the value of the segment BB1, put t.C1 and to the right - a segment equal to 1/20 OB - t.C2

(Fig. 4) We connect points C2, B2 and A with a smooth line, we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 5) We return to point A. To the left we set aside ¼OT+3cm, put t.A1. Up from t.A1 we put 1 cm and put t.A2.

(Fig. 6) Using a pattern, we connect points A2, B1, C1. If you don’t have a pattern at hand, draw a smooth line.

(Fig. 7) Find the middle of the segment C1C2, set t.D. We draw a perpendicular to line C1C2 and at the intersection with line AA1 we set i.e.

(Fig. 8) From t.E down we put two measurements: Bk - set t.D1 and Lengthbr - t.F.

(Fig. 9) From point D1 we lay equal segments to the right and left and put points D2 and D3. The segment D2D3 will be equal to the measure 1/2Ok.

(Fig. 10) We take the bottom of the trouser pattern equal to the segment D2D3, put points F2 and F1, where point F is the middle of the segment F2F1.

(Fig. 11) Connect points C2, D2, F2 and get an internal seam. We connect points C1, D3, F1 and get an external seam. Segment DD1F is the midpoint.

(Fig. 12) Next we build the front dart. We put 1 cm on both sides of i.e. and down 10 cm, put points E3, E2, E1 and connect them.

(Fig. 13) Using a pattern we connect the points of the upper cut AE2 and A2E1.

(Fig. 14) The pattern for the front of the trousers is ready. Let's move on to the back part.

Construction of the back part of the trouser pattern:

We carry out the construction on a ready-made drawing. We recommend picking up a colored pencil so you don't get lost in the lines. Let's start again with T.A. To the left of it we put aside a segment equal to ½ AU+2cm and put so.N. Draw a perpendicular up 2 cm from point H and place point H1.

(Fig. 15) To the left of t.C we put aside a segment equal to 1/24 (1/2OB), put t.C3 and connect it with a straight line to t.H1.

(Fig. 16) From point C3 we lay off a segment to the right equal to 1/10 About - point C4.

(Fig. 17) Extend line AA1 from t.H to the left by ¼ From - 1 cm (this is the Italian offset of the side seam) + 2 cm (on the dart) and place t.H2. From it we draw a perpendicular up 1 cm and place point H3, which we connect to point H1.

(Fig. 18) We enter reference point L, which is the intersection point of segments B1B2 and H1C3.

(Fig. 19) From t.L to the left we draw a segment equal to ¼OB and place t.L1.
We use a pattern to connect points H3, L1 - we get an external seam. We connect points L, C4 - we get the middle seam.

(Fig. 20) The construction of the knee line and the bottom line on the pattern of the back part occurs as follows: from points D2, D3, F1, F2 in the direction of increase we put aside 1.5 cm and put points G, G1, F3, F4. We connect points L1, G, F3 and points C4, G1, F4 with smooth lines. We get the inner and outer seams.

(Fig. 21) The dart on the back half of the trousers is built on line H1H3. t.M is the middle of this line. We put 1 cm from T.M on both sides and down parallel to line H1L 14 cm, we get points M1, M2 and N.

(Fig. 22) Now the main thing is to check the pattern. The length on both seams (inner and outer) on the front and back panels should be the same. To do this, remove the pattern of the front part of the trousers onto tracing paper and place it on the pattern of the back part of the trousers, matching the edges of the internal seams. Next, we move the pattern until the line of the middle seam is aligned, and the back seam can be longer than the front. Then we follow the same principle, matching the edges of the outer seams and moving the pattern until the side points of the waist coincide.

Congratulations! The pattern of women's trousers is ready!


BASIS OF PANTS PATTERNS. Video master class!

will be built in two stages, and will look something like this when finished:

Front half - how to make a pattern video.

Anyone who has tried to create a pattern for pants knows that creating a pattern is not an easy task. The first time I tried to create a pants pattern, I was intimidated by the numerous measurements, formulas and calculations. After some time, I found a way to create a basic trouser pattern that only requires two measurements: hip circumference (HC) and product length (DI)!

If we take into account that the circumference of my hips is 100 cm and the length of the product is also 100 cm, then using the example of constructing my trousers, we will look at the easiest way to construct a trouser pattern in 30 minutes.

In order to create a pattern for pants, we also need to mathematically determine the hip ratio Nb = 1/20 Ob = 100/20 = 5cm and the hip ratio Kb = Nb/2 = 5/2 = 2.5cm. You also need to remember that the seam allowances are already taken into account in the pattern (1cm), and the fit allowance depends on how you measure your hip circumference (tight fit, normal fit, loose fit). Do not forget to take into account the increase in the waist (1 cm) and the increase in hem at the bottom (3 cm) on the fabric.

Front half of trousers

1. In the center of the checkered page on which you will build a small copy of the trouser pattern, you need to draw a square 5Nb x 5Nb = 25cm x 25cm.

2. From the lower right corner you need to put 1.5Nb = 7.5 cm up.

3.To the right of the lower right corner you need to put 1Nb = 5cm along the line of the buttocks.


4. In order to get a smooth line, we need to lay out a bisector with a length of 1Kb = 2.5 cm from the resulting triangle. We draw a smooth line.

Back half of trousers

For convenience, we will build the back half of the trousers with a different color handle on top of the pattern of the front half of the trousers.

1. On the top right of the constructed pattern for the front half of the trousers, we will place a small square 1Kbx1Kb = 2.5cmX2.5cm.


2. To construct the step width of the rear half, you need to set a point along the line of the buttocks 1Nb = 5cm. from the resulting point we will put down 1/4 KB = 2.5/4 = 0.6 cm.


3. Draw a line from the upper left point of the small square (Back half of the trousers, step 1) to the point that we built in point 2 (Back half of the trousers).


4.Build the waist line. On the waist line to the left, put 1Nb = 5 cm and put a dot.

5.Now you need to draw a line from the upper right point of the small square to the leftmost point on the waist line (step 4 of the back half of the trousers).


6. At the knee line, add 1Kb = 2.5 cm to the base of the front on the right and left.

7. Add 1Kb = 2.5cm to the base of the front half of the trousers on both sides on the bottom line.

8. Connect the control points and draw smooth pattern lines.

And again easy and simple!

That's all! The easiest pants pattern to make is ready. Based on it, we can model any type of pants or shorts. The main condition under which this pattern can turn into ready-made trousers is your figure, which should be more or less standard.

It happens that people’s figures are far from ideal, but this does not make them bad or ugly, they just need patterns that are more complex to make in order to take into account all the nuances and intricate curves of the figures in order to hide their disadvantages and emphasize their advantages. This trouser pattern suited my figure, although I do not have an ideal figure.

What I liked about this construction of trousers was the simplicity and speed of execution, as well as the ease of modeling. Just in case, I sewed the first trousers using this system from the cheapest fabric. “What if it doesn’t work out!” - I thought. And I had no reason to be afraid, because now these are one of my favorite trousers.

It took longer to describe the construction than to implement it. I hope now it will be much easier for you to learn how to cut trousers, and sewing trousers will be much easier for you, because I am a fan of simple solutions to any questions!

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In the book by R.I. Egorova “Learn to Sew” there is a detailed explanation of the construction of a trouser pattern. I won’t reinvent the wheel or rewrite anything, I’ll just post screenshots from the book. In my opinion, old sewing books are much better than modern sewing techniques. Also at the end of the article there is a very good video that clearly explains the entire technology of sewing trousers using ready-made patterns.

I also suggest downloading trouser patterns for two options. The first trouser pattern is designed for size 46, and the second for 38. Attention! European sizes. The size chart is shown below.

Pattern of trousers under the photo

Download trouser patterns, size 46 (European):

Trouser pattern - option No. 2

Download trouser pattern No. 2, size 38 (European):

For sewing you will need:

  • Light trouser fabric,
  • Elastic belt for the belt (if you still prefer it).
  • Pattern.

Pants pattern size 46 (size chart above)

How to sew trousers with a drawstring (elastic band)

The upper part of the trousers can be decorated in different ways: make a belt fastened with a button or sew in a zipper. But the simplest option is to sew trousers with an elastic band (or a drawstring). This option is suitable even for beginner craftswomen. Below are master classes with three ways to decorate a belt using an elastic band. And don’t pay attention to the fact that there is a lot of sarcastic ridicule around simple trousers with elastic. But at the same time, if you look into the wardrobes of lovely ladies, then, probably, everyone will have such pants, or at least every second one.

Fold the top with elastic and stitch it

I think that all the prejudices about such trousers are so stupid! I agree that they are not suitable for some situations, but in our lives there are no things that could be worn always and everywhere. In addition, the life of each of us is not continuous trips to theaters, operas and top fashion houses, where we should dress appropriately. We all have a favorite home, cottage and a bunch of other places where simple and comfortable trousers with an elastic waist would be appropriate. For example, when going on vacation, you won’t take an office suit with you, and a simple walk in the park with your baby will be more comfortable in light casual clothes.

It should be noted that what the item is made from plays an equally important role. It is recommended to sew drawstring trousers from silk satin, in which case you can get wonderful pajama-style trousers. And if you take into account the experience of other craftswomen, you can sew models from chiffon, cotton linen, staple, poplin, viscose and other fabrics using this pattern. Such a thing can be useful not only at home, there are even options for going out.

What to wear with pants with elastic (tie)

To further motivate you to sew these trousers, I want to show and tell you what you can combine them with.

The most common option is tops, T-shirts and T-shirts. The main rule is a harmonious combination of fabrics. So, if you decide to sew trousers from chiffon, then it is better to wear them in the future with a chiffon top.

Options made from denser fabrics go well with items made from light knitwear - tops, cardigans. Denim jackets and shirts will also be good company.

It is better to choose low-cut shoes - ballet flats, slippers, moccasins, sneakers, sandals and sandals.